Thailand is having an unusually cold snap 12 degrees morning temperature, the coldest it’s been for 15 years. Thais have been travelling to the top of Doi Inthanon (Thailands highest mountain) to take pictures of the frost! It is 2565 m high.
It was a two T shirts, jumper, jeans and jacket start to our long 5 hour bike ride to Pai.
We are going the back way, the scenic route, it takes twice as long to get there but the quiet roads and stunning scenery are well worth it. Once we left the main road and started climbing through the high forest roads it was teeth chatteringly cold. The air was crystal clear winding our way through the undulating high sided mountain roads with the sun just dappling the tarmac. Even in the middle of nowhere the roads are way better than the potholed, uneven roads of the U.K.
It wasn’t long before we saw these lovely beings on the side of the road waiting for the tourists to come, we snook in and said a quick hello.
We were making good time, the scooter was slightly underpowered for some of the incredibly steep roads especially the long steep ones. We drove through a fair sized Hmong town and after a very long hill the drive belt shredded and threw bits all over the road. Damn. We just made it to the top. We were not far from a Hmong farm where 2 young farmers were working, we managed to ask them where to go. Back to town they said so Chris borrowed Andy’s bike and went in search of help. He was soon back saying he had found a mechanics shop and 2 young Hmong guys said they would take us to Pai. Hallelujah.
They arrived smiling with a pick up truck, put the bike in and we were off. Andy left us to carry on to Pai.
Chat and Gon stopped at a few mechanic shops and we eventually found one with parts locally. The guys were lovely and stayed with us until the work was done and wouldn’t take money for their help. We had to force money on them, they were delighted and hugs and big smiles all round. You should never feel you can’t travel off the beaten track as some kind Thai person will always help whatever your problem.
We set off for Pai, we were half way there and again enjoying the immense scenery from high ridges, down to small valleys. The flora and fauna changing from big leafed trees, banana trees, grasses and big clumps of bamboo on the lower slopes, the floor a dappled green tangled tapestry. Higher up the taller trees, like sentinels clothed in creepers and vines like rows of headless giants with their leafy green Kaftans swaying above the roads.
Dense pine forests and evergreen trees are often over 1000m. It used to be rain forest but logging and farming have changed it. Opium was one of the main crops in the high mountains for the hill tribes but no longer.
Small communites in the valleys or stepped hillsides working the fields, life unfolding with children playing noisily, dogs and chickens, trucks laden with produce heading to markets. People cooking, chatting, village life. I love these trips out on the bike, this is the real Thailand.
The Thai highlands have been populated by hill tribe people mostly of Chinese or Tibetan/Burmese descent. Akha, Yao, Hmong, Lahu, Lisu, Shan all immigrated to these empty regions escaping persecution as well as seeking new land for their agricultural needs.
Getting closer to Pai you first see the river from high up, the river narrow at first bubbling over stones with sandy banks.
The winding roads coming down to the large flat valley passing natural geysers on the side of the road like steamy dragons puffing huge plumes into the air.
We passed a fully naked tourist and her two dreadlocked male companions just coming out of the river, warmed by the hot steamy geysers. We spotted their pimped up VW campervan, and knew we must be getting close to the new age hippy, party central kingdom of Pai.
Only one night in Pai. We have a really early start for the ride to Mae Hong Son. This next part of the famous motorbike loop is the most breathtakingly beautiful section, can’t wait.
Chris and Sigrid’s excellent adventure 