Trying to escape from Chiang Mai

Well, what an end to our long break in Thailand.

Just a few hours before our flight home, the world decided otherwise. War and conflict elsewhere meant our flight was cancelled. Everything was ready: bags packed, the bike stored away, and our belongings carefully left for our next return. Then the message arrived, flight cancelled.

Fortunately, we were able to stay in the apartment we rent, and we quickly retrieved the bike so we had transport again. Friends who visited recently had thoughtfully brought us tea bags, so that crisis was avoided. In truth, the three essentials for an English traveller are now secure: accommodation, transport, and tea.

So what to do? Keep calm and carry on, of course.

One salutary lesson we have learned from this experience: if possible, buy your flight directly from the airline rather than through an online travel agent, even if it costs a little more. We have spent hours sitting at the computer trying to get through to someone, anyone, at the agency. Mostly we have just waited… and waited.

Still, it could be worse. We might have made it as far as the Middle East and been stranded there, which would have been far more complicated. In that sense, we have been luckier than many.

Most of our friends have now left, or are about to, as we enter the “smoky season” here in Chiang Mai. The temperature is around 35°C and riding the bike, which once felt like a refreshing breeze, now feels rather like riding directly into a giant hot hair dryer.

The haze in the mountains comes from fires set by villagers burning ground cover in the forests so they can find the mushrooms that soon appear and provide a useful cash crop. There are strict penalties for doing this, but the fires are usually lit at night, making it difficult to catch those responsible. The result is a heavy haze and, at times, rather poor air quality.

Fortunately, we’ve had a few dramatic thunderstorms recently. The rain clears the air for a few days and brings a welcome drop in temperature. After the rain the frogs begin their nightly concert. Judging by the enthusiasm and volume, it seems every frog in the district has been invited.

One of our favourite places to sit is the balcony. It overlooks a patch of land full of trees and wildlife with the mountains beyond. The birdlife alone is extraordinary: kingfishers, myna birds, coucals, Asian koels, sunbirds, bulbuls, barbets and tailorbirds.

We’ve also seen pond herons and birds of prey, and who knows what else lurking in the undergrowth, like these..

Squirrels dart through the trees, tokay lizards make their presence known, and I’m fairly sure the occasional snake passes through as well.

Speaking of snakes, this one was spotted on the road outside our apartment chasing frogs and small prey. It was a sunbeam snake, apparently harmless, which was reassuring after the fact. Very pretty colours and about 1m long.

With fewer visitors in the city, there are some unexpected positives. The markets are smaller, quieter and easier to navigate, traffic is lighter, and we often find we have the pool entirely to ourselves.

So for now we wait. Three flights have been cancelled so far, but we are hoping to make it onto the next one scheduled for the 21st of March from Bangkok.

P.S. We are practising patience while waiting for the next flight. It’s a difficult discipline, but the balcony view and the tea help enormously